adidas BW Army

Words, SVD. Photo, MM6 Maison Margiela, SVD.

January 20, 2026.

adidas brings the BW Army into the present, an archival model originally designed for military training, preserving its functional spirit while refining its lines into a more understated silhouette.

adidas BW Army: from technical footwear to contemporary design

The adidas BW Army take their name and inspiration from the training shoes used by the German army (Bundeswehr) during the second half of the 20th century. Originally conceived as functional, durable and comfortable footwear for specialized use, that utilitarian logic returns today to define the model.

In its current iteration, the BW Army features a clean, structured premium leather upper, reinforced with precise stitching and a rounded toe. The low profile enhances its discreet aesthetic, while the rubber outsole provides traction and durability.

Its minimalist design resonates with the resurgence of military- and sports-inspired sneakers, fitting effortlessly into both urban styling and more refined looks. Rather than seeking excessive attention, these sneakers are designed to last and to elevate everyday outfits with a subtle sense of character.

Maison Margiela and the legacy of GATs in fashion

It’s impossible to talk about the adidas BW Army without acknowledging the role Maison Margiela played in the cultural reappraisal of this type of silhouette. In the late 1990s, Martin Margiela referenced the German Army Trainers (GAT) and brought them to the runway under the name Replica, revealing the aesthetic potential of a sneaker born from military anonymity. That decision transformed utility into conceptual luxury and placed GATs firmly on the map of contemporary fashion.

The similarities are clear: a low profile, leather upper, suede panels and a rubber sole. But rather than being an imitation, the adidas BW Army represents a legitimate return to its own archive. While Maison Margiela’s Replicas reinterpret the silhouette through a luxury lens, the BW Army remains true to its original DNA, offering a more direct, accessible and honest reading of military design.

Within the adidas catalog, the BW Army has always been the quiet alternative: less media-driven than the Samba, less ubiquitous than the Gazelle, yet precisely for that reason more compelling in today’s context. This year, that discretion becomes its greatest strength.